Saturday, July 10, 2010

Closeup: 2 button Traditional (aka Conservative) jacket

For those looking for a first suit, an interview/work suit, or an all purpose suit, most go for the 2-button suit in the traditional (previously known as Conservative) cut jacket.  There seemed to be a misnomer with the term "conservative" in that it was thought the fit was loose/baggy, compared to the house cut.  The fit through the body is nearly same between the Traditional and House cuts.  The largest difference is in the detailing.

The specific details for the Traditional cut is:
-wider lapel, 2.5" across (House cut is 2") on a size 34-40, 2.75" on a size 42
-jacket length closer to normal  The house cut jacket ends around the top thumb joint, the traditional cut jacket ends about an inch or so longer at the middle thumb joint.
-Ticket pocket is nonoverlapping.  (Or can be omitted altogether)
-Trousers have normal side slant handwarmer pockets (instead of frogmouth/jean style)
-Trouser hem is not as tapered as House cut trouser.  It's still tapered to give a slim look but not nearly as tight at the ankle which does create a more relaxed fit thru the leg, while maintaining a slim profile.

So for those who ask for the house cut but want to make changes and do a wider lapel, longer jacket, no ticket pocket, side slant trouser pockets and less taper thru the leg are in essence asking for the Traditional cut, just to clarify.

The fabric shown in this sample suit is the S/S 2010 Navy Nailhead wool which is a lightweight fabric in approx 8oz cloth.